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Fontursia

Fontursia

A little different than normal

What is normal for food also applies to the wine production sector: it produces what is trendy and tasteful to the buyer. This increases the sales figures but also the race with the other producers.
Cantina Fontursia near Ripatransone in the Marchigian province of Ascoli Piceno is an organic winery that decided to get out of this race a few years ago.
Indeed, it is very surprising that five of the eight different wines are made 100% from a single grape. This means that the wine "in purezza", as it is called in Italian, is not adapted to the taste buds by other grapes, but captivates with the purity of a single grape. As a consequence, this means that each grape leaves its character unadulterated. This also reflects not only the “personality” of the grape but also of the growing area.

It is also surprising that there is a grape on this winery that is not very often to find, the Fragola, which means strawberry. It is only used for home use by Gianmarco, the owner, or the wine is only sold on direct request. In general, Gianmarco has developed very creative ideas and special features in wine production.
In addition to the Fragola grape, he also experiments with an equally unknown grape, the Garofagnata. It will certainly take some time before this grape variety will also be launched as wine. We can be excited.

My visit to this winery produced even more surprises. Normally, wines are first stored in stainless steel tanks for fermentation. However, Gianmarco has a different system, namely barrels made of cement glazed inside. There, the wine for fermentation is initially stored for between 6 months and 2 years, depending on which one the final product is to be. The Crivellino Rosso Piceno Riserva, for example, we simply call it the Rolls Royce among the wines from Fontursia, apart from the Passito, in the next step for further maturation is stored in oak barrels and then in the bottles.

Fontursia grows wine on 8 hectares, and about 50,000 bottles are produced here each year. It is proportionately about 50 to 50 between white and red wines. The grapes grown here carry the typical vines of the southern Marche, the indigenous Pecorino grapes and the Passerina, as well as Montepulciano and Sangiovese. For the red, the proportion is 60% Montepulciano and 40% Sangiovese, which corresponds to the requirements for a DOC wine. The whites are made from one type of grape. The Passerina is a grape that has a lot of fans in terms of taste, because it is light and fruity, while the pecorino grape is a different caliber. Expressive and full of character - in poor words it can actually be said: either you love this grape or you don't like it at all, there is no middle ground.

Like many of the wineries in the Marche region, Fontursia has a long tradition. It was the father of the current owner who founded the cantina in 1955. Since each name is not just a coincidence, the winery was named after a source (fonte = source), which was used by the ancient Tusci as a healing miracle source.
The bottle labels are also linked to the Ascolan history and the colors of the Piceno. Three of them reflect this power of color that strikes everyone who comes to this part of the Marche. The other labels show details of works by one of the greatest artists of the Marche, Carlo Crivelli. The line is also called Crivellino.

Gianmarco is not only good for a surprise in the areas already described. It is no wonder that he still has a very special creation up his sleeve, a version limited to 100 pieces: the Cavalieri Crociati, the Crusader wine. These are three bottles that differ in shape. The exclusive labels were driven in silver foil. One represents the 8 languages ​​of the crusaders, the next the symbol of the Maltese crusaders and the third finally the federal seal of international crusaders. Not only the bottles are valuable, the content as well. A maturation period of at least 1,5 years in barrels made from three different oaks and then a very long time in bottles what shows that these wines should be reserved for very special occasions. As I have already mentioned, the Fontursia winery is closely linked to the Marchigian tradition and its peculiarities and reflects this in all its facets. It is the same with the crusaders who moved through the country and their ships often left Ancona. Of course, wines of this quality also require appropriate packaging. A handmade wooden box with a hand-forged lock completes the whole.

Visitors to the winery experience a completely new experience for our stressed times. It would certainly make more sense to start here when you arrive. There is the way via Ripatransone, a town that is also called the balcony of the Marche, because from here you have a 360-degree panoramic view. From the sea to the Sibillini Mountains, it is worth lingering to become aware of the beauty of this piece of earth. On bright, clear days you look above 150 towns! Le Marche, especially the Piceno, a landscape as if painted, a postcard idyll that doesn't seem to be out of this world. The viewer, who allows himself to forget his baiting, is gripped by an incredible calm and relaxation and feels himself why Le Marche was described by many poets as a land of harmony.
A little further on is the winery, surrounded by the vineyards, in an equally calm position, as if there were no today and tomorrow. Gianmarco seems to have all the time in the world for every guest. He leads around, explains, is happy about questions - just a behaviour that is obviously long past. I was able to experience it myself, although friends had already told me about it. It has nothing to do with a sales pitch, rather it seems as if you are having a chat. You sit down with a bread drizzled with olive oil - home-made, almost self-evident, ciauscolo, ham, cheese and enjoy a glass of wine. The cats lie in the sun, Fumetto, the little kitten that rightly bears the name, little smoke, because of its gray color, ties with Scroopy, the dog, and above all, deep peace.
If you want to experience the extraordinary, which used to be normal in the past, a visit to this winery is advisable. An event without an event, because it shows us a world that most people no longer know.